Restaurant Guide for Business Travelers: São Paulo (Part 2)

Intro: This is a continuation of my ongoing series, showcasing the top-tier hospitality spots primarily in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, focusing on restaurants and bars that truly exemplify style, ambiance and exceptional service – all key elements for the discerning executive traveler.

Happy Hour: Vaca Véia

Perched on one of the trendiest corners of Itaim Bibi since 2005, Vaca Véia has woven itself into the fabric of the city's social tapestry, becoming a beloved refuge for the after-work crowd from the financial district, friends kindling the evening's potential and some of the young single folks flirting over ice cold beers and exquisite Caipirinhas. It was here where I lived on the same block for many years of this notorious bar, spending many nights forging new memories with friends and colleagues.

As the bustle of São Paulo's day ebbs into the amber glow of evening and you leave your last meeting of the day, I'd suggest that you make a pre-dinner stop at Vaca Véia, a haven where Happy Hour is not merely a time but a vibrant celebration of life's simple pleasures.

Whether you're in the mood for a classic cocktail, a handcrafted caipirinha infused with local fruits, or just the coldest beer in the neighborhood, the bar's selection is designed to quench any thirst. The caipirinhas, a Brazilian staple, are mixed to perfection, offering a tantalizing blend of sweet, sour, and strong—each sip a toast to São Paulo's spirited nightlife.

Open for lunch, it's during Happy Hour (usually 6pm-8pm in Brazil) when Vaca Véia truly comes alive. A friend of mine said it reminded them of a friendly, vibrant yet relaxed bar vibe in the West Village but "cooler." The atmosphere here is an enchanting blend of familiarity and excitement—a place where every visitor is invited to unwind and indulge. The inside is a low-ceilinged space where intimacy collides with the electric pulse of urban life outside where patrons and folks passing by on the sidewalk have chats, share stories and cigarettes.

The true enchanting allure of Vaca Véia is its promise—an assurance of an evening that transcends the ordinary. Every visit is an opportunity to create memories in a place that feels both a part of the city's fabric and a step away from the everyday rush. It's a refuge that offers good company, drinks and a favorite past-time, people watching.

Once we've had some drinks and had some time to relax from a long day of business, we head off to our next stop for dinner just a few blocks away....

Dinner: Ohka

São Paulo has the second highest Japanese population in the world outside of Tokyo! So, you can imagine that the city has no shortage of world-class sushi restaurants. One of those gems, has been a long-time favorite of mine. Nestled in the trendy neighborhood of Itaim Bibi, lies Ohka, a local favorite that stands out in a city teeming with culinary excellence.

As you step from the outside world into this dimly lit restaurant, the ambiance immediately sets the stage for an epicurean journey. You are greeted by an enchanting play of shadows and lights against a large backdrop of colored paper geishas and classic Japanese illustrations that adorn the walls. Their soft glow casting an ethereal atmosphere reminiscent of classic film sets — where tales of empires, senses, and geishas once unfolded.

The restaurant is a sanctuary for sushi enthusiasts. The chefs and their team are not just purveyors of food; they are artisans dedicated to the craft of sushi-making, offering service that is as impeccable as the dishes they serve. The waitstaff, knowledgeable and passionate, stand ready to guide you through the menu, offering pairing suggestions that promise to enhance your dining experience. The menu, a celebration of both the ocean's bounty and the chef's ingenuity, is a testament to the quality and creativity on offer. The star of the show is undoubtedly the Toro Sashimi, served on a slab of pink Himalayan salt rock—a presentation that not only heightens the flavor but also captivates the diner's visual and tactile senses.

A few other of my go-to dishes are the Buri Toro, a buttery delight, derived from the finest Yellowtail that melts in your mouth and the various tuna selections, offering a variety of cuts, each with its unique texture and depth of flavor. Every dish is well presented, garnished with delicate herbs, edible flowers, and precise dollops of sauces that add a pop of color and flavor. The sophistication extends to the sushi rice itself—prepared with a seasoned blend of vinegars that elevates it beyond a mere base to an integral component of the experience. Pair all of this with a cold bottle of Dassai Junmai Sake and you’ll be in heaven.

Ohka is a sushi haven that captures the essence of Japanese culinary artistry with a modern Brazilian twist. Beautiful, modern, and invariably pleasant, it resonates with the vibrancy of Itaim Bibi, a neighborhood known for its upscale dining and nightlife. As dinner winds down, the vibrant nightlife of São Paulo beckons.

Drinks: Bar Do Cofre

About a 20 minute cab ride from Ohka, tucked away in the heart of São Paulo's downtown "centro" lies a nightcap destination like no other: Bar do Cofre. This unique spot, steeped in history, is set in the depths of one of the capital’s most iconic former banks, the Farol Santander. What used to be a stronghold for financial transactions has transformed into a treasure trove for after-dinner drinks and lively conversations.

Bar do Cofre, literally meaning 'Vault Bar,' lives up to its name. Secured behind imposing steel bars, in the basement of the historic building, this bar offers an experience that's both clandestine and luxurious. The space retains its original charm, with marble floors and walls, and the massive concrete and reinforced steel circular doors of the vault still intact. The atmosphere is reminiscent of renowned establishments like The Ned in London and Butcher and Banker in NY, thanks to the meticulous design by LAB Arquitetos.

As patrons step past the bars and into the central room, they're greeted with illuminated shelves and a striking bar, surrounded by two 16-ton doors. The first door opens to a room that’s a nod to history, showcasing almost two thousand individual deposit boxes and furniture pieces from the Santander collection, all meticulously restored. The other door leads to a lounge adorned with LED panels and a mobile bar, featuring a special selection of Johnnie Walker and single malts.

The menu at Bar do Cofre is a blend of exclusivity and tradition, including the signature 'The Hidden' cocktail, a tribute to Farol Santander, made with Johnnie Walker, rooibos tea, red vermouth and bitters. It also features classic drinks and original creations by Fabio La Pietra, known for his hits in Vila Madalena, SubAstor Bar. Each cocktail is a masterful blend of flavors, sure to satisfy even the most discerning palates.

For those seeking an out-of-the-ordinary experience in São Paulo, Bar do Cofre offers just that. The bar exudes a welcoming vibe, great music and a delightful menu. While the service can be leisurely, the experience more than compensates. Signature drinks like the Moscow mule and cashew cocktail are a must-try. The ambiance is perfect for an intimate client meeting or a memorable date.

Although a little bit further out from the traditional business hubs such as Itaim Bibi, Jardins and Vila Olimpia, Bar do Cofre is a wonderful experience that makes it worthwhile. It's one of my go-to spot for taking clients visiting São Paulo that are looking to enjoy a great nightcap after dinner. I always recommend grabbing an Uber or Taxi and making sure to book a reservation on the bar’s website as it can get busy.

In essence, Bar do Cofre isn't just a place for a drink; it's a journey into São Paulo's storied past, offering a chic, intimate setting for winding down after a busy day, making it an essential stop for any business traveler or local seeking a unique evening out.